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<p>From : <a href="mailto:phil.osborne@worldnet.att.net">Phil Osborne</a></p> 

<p>Jack the car up and remove all wheels. Suspension should hang loose, so do
not put jackstands under suspension components, only the subframe area
(jacking points). In front, remove the three nuts on top of the spring perch
(on each side). </p>

<p>Remove the brake line retaining clip from each strut. It is a good idea to
mark the strut to knuckle connector with a scribe, or at least some paint so
that you can get the alignment back close enough to drive it to an alignment
shop. If you are careful, you can get it back to current, and not have to
worry too much about alignment other than slight toe adjustment.</p>

<p>Remove the bolts that connect the strut to the knuckle. (Remember that the
adjsutment eccentric bolt goes in the bottom hole).</p>

<p>You should then be able to pull the spring/strut assembly from the car.</p>

<p>Using an approved spring compressor (available from most auto parts store
for 30 bucks or so) attach the spring compressor to top and bottom of spring
only, and compress tension into spring. Using impact wrench, (or special
tool available, but not absolutely necessary) and remove the large nut on
top of the strut. Pull spring off strut. Reverse procedure to reinstall the
new spring. Repeat at each wheel the above...</p>

<p>The rear procedure is the same as the front, except you don't need to mark
for realignment. The upper strut mounting nuts are located in the trunk, at
the top of the strut housing, under the trunk matting...</p>

<p>If you are somewhat familiar with how to do this, it can be done in about 35
minutes per corner. I would expect it to take a novice 4 to 6 hours to
complete this task. Remember to torque the strut to knuckle bolts (after
carefully reassembling to marked area) to a minimum of 110 ft. lbs. (if you
have crash bolts, torque to 150 ft. lbs.)</p>

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